If
someone asked you to define Denim, what exactly
would your answer be? I wrestled with this when
asked.
DENIM:
a sturdy, indigo-dyed cotton fabric available in
various weights and qualities that is used to make
jeans. Why is it different from other twills. Well,
it is woven with a dyed warp yarn and natural fill
yarn, resulting in its characteristic wear-down
qualities.
Where
does the word Denim come from: It is actually an
Americanization of the French name "serge de Nimes," a
fabric which originated in Nimes, France during
the Middle Ages. In 1864, Webster's dictionary
listed the shortened English version: DENIM.
Now
you know. This is great sewing trivia.
If
the yards of denim were laid out, you could create
a four-lane denim highway more than 60,000 miles
long. Now, that's a lot of denim.
Denim
comes in many varieties and most of us don't know
each one of these.
Broken
Twill-this is a 3X1 weave where the twill
rib does not run in a straight diagonal line,
but instead it changes direction. Why? This reduces
fabric torque.
Carding:
This is the process in which the cotton fibers are
cleaned.
Cotton
fiber: all denim begins with cotton fiber.
Faux
Ring-Spun: This makes denim fabric appear to
be ring-spun
Filling
Yarn: also known as weft yarn
Left-Hand
twill: this produces a diagonal line
Open-ended:
This open-ended spinning was introduced in the 1970's.
This makes the yarn faster and less expensive.
Plain
weave: also called one-up-one-down weave
Right-hand
twill: this produces a diagonal line that rises
from the lower left to the upper right.
Ring/OE:
This results in a softer denim.
Ring-Ring:
This is when the lengthwise and filling yarns are woven
together.
Ring-Spun:
The yarns are twisted which makes them stronger
Roving:
During the yarn-making the cotton fiber is drafted
into smaller and finer form
Selvage:
The small woven edge that is parallel to the warp.
As we know, this prevents raveling.
Sliver:
The cotton fiber that is untwisted, loose and soft.
Slub:
A short yarn imperfection.
Staple:
Lengths of fiber before they are twisted and spun into
yarn
Tear:
When pulled, this is a piece of the fabric's horizontal
strength.
Tensile:
When pulled, a piece of the fabric's vertical strength.
Warp:
Yarn that runs lengthwise and parallel to the selvage.
Weight:
Denim can be woven into many weights-from four to over
14 ounces.
Denim
can be dyed in almost any shade imaginable. We tend
to think of it as blue. The next installment of the
denim blues will cover how denim is dyed.