Have you been to a fabric store lately? There are so many new fabrics. Walking into a fabric store can be overwhelming. The shelves are piled high with new fabrics, new notions, and new accessories. I am going to write about some of these rarely talked about fabrics so shopping will be easier.

For example:
Chenille. This fabric is soft-to-touch wears better and does not stretch out of shape. Instead of letting the fabric feed through the foot, it is better to push the fabric toward the presser foot. Always use the "with nap" layout.
China Silk: This should be used for lining only. In this case, hold the fabric taut from front and back as you sew. If you are making a mans shirt, use Cotton Shirting. This 100% cotton is luxurious and wonderful to sew on.
Hemp Cloth: this is a sturdy plant-fiber fabric similar to linen. But one thing for sure: it doesn't wrinkle as much. This is a medium weight fabric suitable for oversized shirts, wrap skirts and loose dresses. Decorative stitching looks great on this fabric.
Lame': Lame' contains copper, aluminum, or gold and is available in about a dozen colors. This fabric is suitable for applique, trim, loose tops. This fabric does tear easily and can be rather fragile.
Linen is "in": Linen doesn't drape and it sure does wrinkle. Linen comes in different weights. Be sure and think about the weight when pairing it with your project.
Lycra: Great for activewear. Lycra is combined with nylon, cotton, linen, and wool and stretches in one or both directions. Don't stretch the fabric as you sew. My favorite fabric is
Microfiber: This fabric is the finest-quality polyester at 200 threads per inch. Microfiber comes in different weights. This fabric drapes well but keep in mind, it does not breathe. This fabric doesn't "give" very well so you would want to use raglan or dolman sleeves. Once you feel this fabric, you will know what I'm talking about. Use a very small needle so the fabric won't tear. This is a great tip: Put the needle of your machine on the far left position to reduce puckering. If you can use a single-hole throat plate you job will be much easier.

More on fabrics.
Polyester Silky is very enticing on the bolt, but it is difficult to get seams that don't pucker. So be warned. The only way to accomplish the no-pucker look is to cut the fabric on the crossgrain or bias. Polyester silky is a good candidate to have pleated since polyester will hold pleats indefinitely. Remember that polyester is warm to wear. This fabric is great for blouses, nightgowns and pleated skirts. When sewing be sure and hold the fabric taut while feeding it through the machine. I find prepleated fabrics rather odd. It is sold stretched and unstretched. This fabric is usually all polyester or a polyester blend. As stated above, the polyester is what holds the pleat.
Prepleated fabric is great for close-fitting tops, tube skirts, and full pants with elasticized waists. Look for simple shapes with very few seams. You can also use this fabric for collars, ruffles, cuffs, sleeves and godets. Do not interface this fabric. When laying out the pattern, align the pleats with the lengthwise grainline. Use the "with nap" layout and single thickness. Most of the time we try not to let the seams pucker. Well, there is puckered fabrics. This has a three-dimensional effect and it is created by elasticized threads on the fabric back. Where to use this?

Collars, pocket flaps, bodice top, bustier, vest, short bolero. When sewing you need to place paper strips between the presser foot and the fabric and the fabric and the feed dogs. This will eliminate seam stretching. Literally push the fabric into the presser foot. Then tear off the paper. Use of a rotary cutter is great on this fabric. Use silk organza interfacing and never use fusible interfacings. This fabric does not require preshrinking. That makes my day! I am a big fan of rayon. Since all rayon's are not created equal, find some rayon challis and you will understand why. This fabric works well in most styles and is flattering to the body. It is very easy to sew with. When making full pants, skirts and dresses, this is the best pick.

I hope reading about these fabrics will make your choices clearer when you stand in the fabric store surrounded by a sea of color.
Rayon Crepe is a fabric that drapes beautifully, eases well, but it is also prone to wrinkles. This fabric is suitable for full blouses, full skirts, full pants and jackets. The key word is "full." Here's a fabric you probably haven't heard about:
Ripstop. Yes, ripstop. This is a lightweight wind-resistant nylon. Understand it is more wind resistant than nylon taffeta. Some ripstops have a durable water-repellent finish as well. Keep in mind that ripstop does not breathe. This fabric is suitable for jackets, ponchos and wind pants. You do not need to preshrink or worry about the nap. Another fabric:
sequins. Yes, by the yard. When working with this allow three times longer to work on this than any other fabric. It is suitable for tops, straight skirts, collarless jackets and a strapless dress. The sequins need to be pulled out of the seam allowances.
Silk Charmeuse is a luxurious, supple silk. It is great for blouses and lingerie. The front is shiny and the back is dull. When you start to sew a seam, hold onto the top and bobbin threads to prevent the fabric from being eaten by the machine. Sew tautly, and pull with equal pressure from front to back.
Silk Chiffon is not the fabric to use when working on your first project. It has a mind of its own. Because of its weight, it is perfect for pants, loose tops and flowing dresses. When cutting this fabric, cover your table with tissue paper. Pin a double thickness of fabric to the paper. Pin the pattern through the fabric AND paper. Keep pins within the seam allowances. Use sharp scissors and cut through all the layers. And pray.
Silk crepe de Chine is available in three weights. All three of these are good for tailored shirts and blouses. When using this fabric don't overfit. You don't want to put stress on the seams. When cutting, use the same advice as stated for silk chiffon. Stress is a killer, even in fabrics.

And more fabrics.
Silk crepe de Chine is fabulous. This fabric is available in three weights: 2-ply, the most common, 3-ply, the favorite of top-notch designers, and 4-ply, found in tailored pants and jackets. This fabric is great for shirts, blouses, pants and dresses. You almost can't go wrong. When using this fabric don't overfit. You don't want to stress out the seams. You can use the "without nap" layout and be sure and use glass-head silk pins. Here is another lesser known fabric:
Silk Dupion. This is a crisp fabric with irregular slubs in the yarn. Use this for tailored pants, jackets, fitted dresses and straight skirts. In other words, this is not good fabric for anything loose fitting. This is very easy to sew with so go for it!
Silk Gazar: here is a fabric that does not drape whatsoever. So what can you use this for? For crisp blouses, coat and even a jacket if you use a firm interfacing. Never backstitch when sewing on this. You need to use the "with nap" layout because you could tell a color difference. Most of you have heard of silk georgette. You can see through this fabric but not as much as with chiffon. Anything loose fitting would be great made up in this silk. If it is good quality fabric, you can hand-wash it. For interfacing use skin-colored silk organza. Another fabric:
Silk Noil. More commonly you would call this raw silk. It has a dull finish, and boy does it ravel. If you don't have a serger, I would suggest not using this fabric. It is suitable for full skirts, big shirts and loose dresses. It really is easy to sew but the raveling can drive you nuts.
Silk Tussah: this has a nubby appearance. This is made from uncultivated silk worms. (sounds like these worms aren't educated enough!) Silk tussah is great for narrow pants, straight skirts and even vests. When I think "tweed" I think winter. But that is not true when it comes to Silk tweed. The fabric is suitable for jackets and vests but NOT for straight skirts. This snags to easily and if the pants are full it becomes bulky. (which in turn, makes you feel heavier). We have all heard of suede but how about Sueded Rayon. This is washable and looks great for skirts, pants and even shorts

Tencel is one of my favorites. Tencel is a fabric made from wood pulp and produced with a recyclable non-toxic dissolving agent. Tencel is soft and drapey and often combined with other fibers in both knits and wovens. It is wonderful to wear and it doesn't wrinkle. Full pants, full skirts, big shirts and even pajamas would look nice in Tencel.
Vinyl: vinyl shines like patent leather but you can be sure it doesn't breathe. Vinyl is suitable for upholstery projects, handbags, straight skirts, narrow pants, vests and jean jacket trim. These are a few areas you might not have thought to use vinyl. To sew on vinyl you must spray the machine surface with silicone spray to avoid sticking. No, you are not cooking the vinyl!! Hold the layers together using paper clips. How many of you have heard of Viyella? This fabric is 50% wool and 50% cotton. It is a year-round fabric that breathes, unlike vinyl. Using this fabric you could make men's and women's shirts, bathrobes, A-line skirts and tailored dresses. It drapes slightly but gets better with age. (like the rest of us!) . Wetsuit fabric: this fabric is designed to keep you warm even when wet. It has a foam layer or could have a polyester fleece layer.
Wool boucle: This is a loosely woven fabric with small curls or loops that provide a nubby surface. If all else fails, buy a cat for the same affect. This fabric is suitable for sweater looks, vest and unstructured coats.
Wool gauze: This is a very unstable fabric in the wool family. (sort of like a sick sheep!). It is sheer and filmy and needs at least 4 inches of ease at bust and hip.
Wool melton: it is a heavily felted wool with a smooth napped surface. We probably wouldn't use it much in Florida because it is very warm to wear. It is great for coats, vests or jackets.

Print this out and carry it with you to your friendly fabric store. Happy shopping!